What We Do


 Before your pup ever goes to a trainer he/she should ALREADY be introduced to the outdoors.  AFTER they have had their shots, get them out and let them experience the outdoors.  Let them learn to be dogs and how it can be fun to play/hunt.  Go ahead and drag a toy for them on a rope.  When they catch it, pull them to you and praise them.  Just don't play tug of war with them.  Take the toy and toss it again for them and repeat the play.

Am I going to be a birdy dog?

KEY POINT:  ALWAYS stop the play time leaving them wanting more.    Two or three tosses, not 20 or 30.  You do not want your pup to tire of the play time. 

KEY POINT: NEVER hide something you want your dog to find.  This causes them to always look at the ground and use their nose to find the game.   You want a dog that is looking around and sees the falling bird and watches where it hits the ground.  He/She learns to MARK the spot.  They can use their nose when they get to that spot.  Make sure it is always in the open for them to find. 

EXAMPLE:  I was hunting with a friend and we both shot a duck and downed it.  Both our dogs went for the bird.   His dog lost track of the bird and stopped at the edge of the decoys and started hunting for it.  My girl went to the far rice check after the bird because she never took her eyes off the bird.

Basic Obedience

We like to start with dogs around 6 months of age and build Basic Obedience -  sit, stay, heel, down.   Most of these skills should already be instilled in your dog.   What we do is teach the dog to sit out at 30 to 50 yards and stay until called.   Then they will heel with you until told to sit again.  The working Gundog needs to learn fetch and hold, but this is not the time to get really harsh with it.  We keep it fun and simple.


Introduction to more formal commands.

This is a good day!
The introduction to formal commands begins building on what the dog already has learned, SIT- STAY, and moves into, PLACE/SIT for example.  

We start the dog on commands he/she will need to build on to advance.  Teaching to place   prepares him/her for the more advanced OVER and BACK commands. 

Advanced Training

Almost any pup will fetch and hold by now.  That is, as long as they are having fun. Then they have to be taught to hold until allowed to release to hand.  This is called forced fetch or controlled retrieve.

SO, if you are looking for a trained Labrador that will stop when you tell it to, heal when told, come when told, go left, go right, go back when told, release to hand without dropping your bird, go to place, hunt from a dog blind, retrieve doubles, ride your quad, (not drive), and love you to death - THAT'S What We Do!

Personal experience: My hunting partner and I got a double on ducks so he sent his dog after his duck and I sent Rose after mine.   My partner's dog, being a lot larger dog and untrained, followed Rose to her bird and was first to get to the bird.  Rose let the other dog have the bird and both started back to the blind.  When both dogs were in line with the second downed duck, I gave Rose a "sit" command.  After the other dog cleared the area I gave Rose a "right over".  She obeyed without question and after about 10 yards, she saw the second bird and retrieved it happily.  She was a long way from being a finished Field Trial dog but I couldn't have been more proud of my girl. 

Our pups are raised to be LOVING SOCIABLE BOYS AND GIRLS

Dinner time!  Have a bite!

Some take longer than others!

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Gary Garrett
CELL / BUSINESS LINE- 530-682-4806
HOME- 530-742-8719
Located in Browns Valley, Ca.

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